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The climbing route below Hoven
Arne and Kjell Sæten had looked at the wall under the top of the Hoven long before they started climbing. Only after the Loen Skylift opened, and they got to see the wall up close, did the idea arise that it might be possible to establish routes in the gorge. With renewed courage they bought bolts and necessary equipment. The original plan was to create a combined abseiling and beginner's route.
After two rappels, they nevertheless reached a ledge – later called the Eagle's Nest – where they had a full view of the wall. The view was both impressive and frightening. There was no rappel route. Large boulders and generally uncertain terrain meant that they traversed into the white, slightly overhanging wall, and continued from there almost straight down.
After about 14 days of work, spread over two years, the route was finally a fact. The work was hard, and it was far from easy to climb a 300-meter-long, slightly overhanging wall with about 30 kilos in a harness and bag. The day they topped the route, two helicopters took off only about 50 meters above them. Gravel and branches flew around, and the name was given: Inferno.
You can find more information about the Inferno route and the development of new routes on the Facebook page Climbing Loen.
NB: Inferno must not be confused with Via Ferrata Loen . These two are separate, and are two different offers. Inferno was created on an external initiative, and has no direct connection to Loen Skylift AS or Loen Active AS.
Arrival
Drive to Loen and park at the Loen Skylift parking lot (P₁). Take the path to the top and then follow the path west along the ridge. After about 500 meters you will come to a tall pine tree. From here you go down to the left into the forest and follow the red markings. Keep going to the left under the mountain along a ledge, which leads to a waterfall. Cross the waterfall high up, and then keep going straight ahead for a short distance before continuing downwards. Follow the markings until you reach the first bolted section. The terrain is not difficult here, but belaying is necessary. Keep going, and gradually you will come around the edge of the next bolted section, which leads to the rappel. Rappel 40 meters down and follow the description on the next page to the start of the Inferno route. If the climb is interrupted, the rappel must be climbed up again (bolt, grade 6+), and the approach is followed in the opposite direction.
Don't go down the chute – it's loose and dangerous!
As an alternative to taking the Loen Skylift, you can drive up to Oppheim and park there. From here, follow the road for about six kilometers before turning right and walking towards the tall pine tree. From there, the access is the same as from the Loen Skylift.
Inferno
Grade: 8-/8
Inferno is a 300-meter long, bolted route. Most of the pitches are slightly overhanging and spectacular, with fantastic views. The pitches are mostly on small ledges.
Bring:
25 card loops
two 60 cm slings
preferably a long, stiff sling
It is recommended to use an 80 meter long rope.
Expect 8–9 hours for the climb.
Rope lengths
6 Initial rope length to reach the very start of the route.
8-/8 The hardest pitch on the route! Use the two nearby bolts as a stand when you reach good hold a little way up to the left.
7+ Great and pumping climbing.
7- Exceptionally good for the degree! The site is located on a sloping ledge that is well suited for a break.
8- First the roof overhang, then technical climbing.
7+ Very good and pumping climbing.
7+/8- A tight start and a pumping traverse climb. Ends with an easy traverse out to a good ledge.
7+ Goes out to the left. Use long slings to avoid rope pulls. Stand on a ledge with a fantastic view, called Ørneredet .
6+ Nice steep and vertical climbing.
6- Easy climb to the top. Communication is challenging, and you get out of sight.
Alternative ending after the 7th pitch (to the right)
8. 7 Easier than it looks. Very nice climb!
9. 7/7+ Very nice and airy climbing! Be careful of the ledge under the roof.
10. 7- Great climb out to the left, further to the right and then straight up to a good ledge.
11. 5+ Easy final rope length up to the top.
Arne Sæten & Kjell Sæten, 2020 / 2022